Winter Care for New Trees: How to Protect Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs in Winter

Winter Care for New Trees: How to Protect Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs in Winter

The best winter care for new trees and shrubs is simple: water deeply until the ground freezes, spread 3 to 4 inches of mulch over the roots, and protect what winter attacks most. That means thin bark (sun and rodents), evergreen foliage (drying winds) and upright branches (heavy snow). Skip late-season fertilizer, and give potted plants extra root protection.

A newly planted tree or shrub hasn't yet grown the wide root system an established plant relies on, so its first winters are the riskiest. Here's what university extension services recommend.

1. Keep Watering Until the Ground Freezes

Dry soil going into winter is one of the biggest reasons new plantings struggle. University of Minnesota Extension recommends easing off watering slightly in September to help plants harden off for winter, then watering thoroughly in October until the soil freezes.

  • How much: University of Maryland Extension suggests about 1 to 2 inches of water at a time, enough to wet the soil at least 6 inches deep.
  • How to tell: Push a finger or trowel into the soil. If it's dry several inches down, water. If it's still moist, wait. Maryland Extension warns that many new trees are accidentally drowned by too-frequent watering.
  • Evergreens first: Evergreens keep losing water through their needles and leaves all winter, so Maryland Extension says to water them deeply in fall whenever rain has been light.

Should I water trees in winter?

Sometimes, yes. If your winter is dry and the ground isn't frozen, the Arbor Day Foundation recommends watering young and newly planted trees about every couple of weeks when there's no snow cover. Water only when the air is above 40°F and there's no snow or ice on the ground, and water early in the day so it soaks in before nighttime cold.

2. Mulch the Root Zone (But Not the Trunk)

Mulch holds moisture in the soil and evens out temperature swings that can heave and damage young roots. University of Minnesota Extension recommends covering the roots of new trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch, then pulling it back about 6 inches from the trunk.

That gap matters. Avoid piling mulch up against the bark in a "mulch volcano."

3. Wrap Thin-Barked Young Trees Against Sunscald

On sunny winter days, the sun warms the south and southwest side of a trunk enough to wake up the living tissue under the bark, then a hard freeze that night kills it. Utah State University Extension notes the damage shows up as dead, cracked bark that can let in borers and disease.

Young trees with thin, smooth bark are most at risk. University of Minnesota Extension lists cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash and plum. Colorado State University Extension adds redbud and ginkgo. That covers many popular yard trees, including a young Autumn Blaze® Red Maple, a Hot Wings™ Tatarian Maple, a Kwanzan Flowering Cherry or an Eastern Redbud.

How to wrap a tree trunk

  1. Pick a light-colored wrap. Minnesota Extension recommends white commercial tree wrap or white plastic tree guards and says not to use brown paper wrap or black guards. Colorado State prefers a light-colored, crepe-paper type wrap and advises against plastic and burlap, so if you use a plastic guard, make sure it's loose and ventilated.
  2. Start at the base. Colorado State says to wrap from the ground up, overlapping each layer by about one-third, until you reach the first branch.
  3. Fasten the wrap to itself, with tape or staples. Never staple into the tree.
  4. Take it off in spring. Colorado State stresses that wrap is a seasonal treatment only, not something to leave on year-round.

How many winters? Minnesota Extension suggests wrapping newly planted trees for at least two winters, and thin-barked species for up to five or more. As an alternative, Utah State lists a 50:50 mix of white exterior latex paint and water, brushed onto the lower trunk, as another way to protect it.

4. Guard Against Rabbits, Voles and Deer

When snow covers their usual food, rabbits and voles (small field mice) turn to tender bark. Chewing that circles a young trunk can seriously damage or kill the tree.

  • Use hardware cloth. University of Minnesota Extension recommends a cylinder of ¼-inch mesh hardware cloth set about 6 inches away from the trunk.
  • Go low for mice and voles: bury the bottom of the cylinder 2 to 3 inches below the soil line.
  • Go high for rabbits: the top should reach 18 to 24 inches above the snow line you expect, since rabbits stand on snow drifts.

Deer are a bigger challenge. Iowa State recommends cages at least 6 feet tall around individual plants (shorter is fine for small plants if the cage is closed on top). For whole yards, Minnesota Extension says deer fences should be 8 feet high. Remove individual cages in spring.

5. Protect Evergreens From Winter Burn

Winter burn is the brown, scorched-looking foliage you see on evergreens in late winter. Iowa State University Extension explains that it's really drying injury: sun and wind pull water out of the needles and leaves while the roots sit in frozen or dry soil and can't replace it. That's why fall watering is the first line of defense.

New arborvitae such as Emerald Green Arborvitae or Thuja Green Giant, and broadleaf evergreens such as Green Velvet Boxwood and Sky Pencil Holly, are the plants most worth watching in exposed spots.

Burlap screens

Minnesota Extension recommends a burlap barrier on the south, southwest and windward sides. Iowa State adds two important details: set the screen at least 6 inches away from the foliage, and don't wrap burlap around the plant like a blanket.

Antidesiccant sprays: helpful or not?

Antidesiccants (also called anti-transpirants) are waxy sprays meant to slow water loss from foliage. Sources honestly disagree on them:

  • University of Minnesota Extension says these sprays are not effective for protecting evergreen foliage.
  • Iowa State says they may be helpful on susceptible evergreens.
  • Nebraska Extension suggests applying after plants are dormant (often late November or early December) on a day above freezing with 3 to 4 hours of drying time. It notes some products shouldn't be used on arborvitae, and the oil can temporarily turn blue spruce needles green. Always follow the label.

Treat a spray as an optional extra, never a replacement for fall watering, mulch and a windbreak.

6. Keep Snow and Ice From Splitting Arborvitae

Upright, multi-stemmed evergreens like arborvitae can splay open or snap under wet snow and ice. Iowa State University Extension recommends wrapping these plants loosely with twine or rope in fall to hold the stems together, then removing it promptly in spring.

After a storm, Iowa State says to gently shake the snow off, or brush it off with a broom using an upward motion.

If you're planting a new screen of Private Jet™ Arborvitae or other narrow evergreens, plan on tying them for their first few winters.

7. Don't Fertilize Late in the Season

Fertilizer in late summer or fall can push out tender new growth that doesn't have time to toughen up before the cold. Colorado State University Extension says to avoid late summer and early fall fertilizing because it may interfere with winter hardiness. For evergreens, University of Minnesota Extension says not to fertilize later than mid-July.

Newly planted trees need very little fertilizer anyway. Colorado State says to keep it to a minimum while roots establish. If you want to feed with a product like MitoGrow™ Tree and Shrub, save it for spring and follow the label.

8. Give Potted Trees and Shrubs Extra Protection

UMass Extension explains that roots are much less cold-hardy than branches, and in a pot they aren't insulated by surrounding soil.

A good rule of thumb: in a pot, assume a plant needs protection if it's anywhere near the cold edge of its USDA hardiness zone range (the zone number that tells you how cold your winters typically get). Not sure of yours? Check our growing zone guide.

  • Bury the pot. Iowa State University Extension suggests setting pots into the ground after plants go dormant but before the soil freezes, since soil is a good insulator.
  • Or move it somewhere cold but sheltered. Iowa State recommends an unheated structure that stays between about 20 and 45°F, with water every two to three weeks when temperatures are above freezing.
  • Group and insulate. UMass suggests clustering pots, putting the most cold-sensitive plants in the middle, and surrounding the group with bales of hay or bags of leaves.
  • Water before the freeze, since moist soil freezes more slowly. Don't leave pots sitting in water.

This applies to potted Japanese maples like Bloodgood Japanese Maple, container hydrangeas such as Endless Summer® Hydrangea, and anything else you haven't planted yet.

If you planted this fall, you've already given your trees a head start. Here's why fall is the best time to plant trees and shrubs, and these winter steps help that advantage pay off.

Common Questions

When should I stop watering newly planted trees?

Keep watering whenever the soil is dry until the ground freezes. During winter, water on mild days above 40°F if there's no snow cover, per the Arbor Day Foundation. Resume regular checks in spring.

When should I put on and take off tree wrap?

Put it on in late fall and remove it in spring. Colorado State suggests late November through about mid-April; Minnesota Extension says to remove it after the last frost.

Should I wrap arborvitae in burlap?

Not tightly. Iowa State says to build a burlap screen at least 6 inches from the foliage rather than wrapping it like a blanket. To prevent snow damage, tie the stems loosely with twine instead.

Is it OK to fertilize new trees in fall?

It's safest to wait. Colorado State advises avoiding late summer and early fall fertilizing, and new trees need little fertilizer while their roots establish.

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Sources and Further Reading

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