Fall bulb time is here! Every tulip, daffodil and allium that lights up a spring garden got its start in the cold soil of autumn. Spring-flowering bulbs need a long, cool winter underground to bloom, which means the planting window is now. Miss it, and you wait a whole year.
The good news: bulbs are one of the easiest things you'll ever plant. Dig, drop, cover, and forget about them until they surprise you in April. This guide covers when to plant, exactly how to do it, the tips that make the biggest difference, and trusted resources if you want to go deeper.
When to Plant Fall Bulbs
Plant spring-flowering bulbs in fall, once the soil has cooled but before the ground freezes. Rutgers University's guide recommends planting when the soil temperature falls below 60°F, which for many gardens is mid-September through October. The Chicago Botanic Garden suggests aiming for a few weeks before the ground freezes so roots have time to grow.
- Cold-winter areas (zones 3 to 5): Plant from about mid-September through October.
- Moderate areas (zones 6 to 7): October through November is usually ideal.
- Mild-winter areas (zones 8 and up): Plant in late November or December, once the soil has finally cooled down. See the note on chilling below.
A simple rule from the University of Illinois: most bulbs can go in any time until the ground is frozen. If you're running late, plant anyway. A bulb in the ground does far better than a bulb in the garage.
Not sure of your zone? Enter your zip code at the top of our site, or read our guide to the best plants for your growing zone.
How to Plant Bulbs, Step by Step
- Pick a sunny, well-drained spot. Most spring bulbs want at least six hours of sun. Good drainage is the single most important thing. Bulbs sitting in soggy soil over winter will rot.
- Loosen the soil and add compost. Work in compost or other organic matter, especially if you have heavy clay. It helps clay drain and helps sandy soil hold moisture.
- Dig to the right depth. The rule of thumb: plant bulbs two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. A 2-inch tulip bulb goes about 5 to 6 inches deep. Large bulbs like tulips and daffodils end up around 6 to 8 inches deep. Small bulbs like crocus and grape hyacinth go 3 to 4 inches deep.
- Point side up. Set each bulb with the pointed tip facing up and the flat, root end facing down. If you truly can't tell, plant it on its side. It will find its way.
- Space them out. Large bulbs about 6 to 8 inches apart, small bulbs 3 to 4 inches apart.
- Cover, water well, and mulch. Backfill, give the area a good soak to settle the soil and start roots growing, then add 2 to 3 inches of mulch to keep soil temperatures steady.
Best Practices for a Big Spring Show
Plant in groups, not rows
Bulbs look best in clusters and drifts. Plant them in groups of 5, 7 or more, or scatter a handful across an area and plant them where they land for a natural look. A single bold sweep of one color makes a big statement from the street.
Plan for weeks of color
Mix early, mid and late-season bulbs and you'll get a wave of flowers instead of one quick burst. Crocus and early daffodils kick things off, tulips and hyacinths follow, and alliums carry the show into early summer.
Try "lasagna" layering in pots
In a deep container, plant big late bloomers like tulips or alliums on the bottom, mid-size bulbs like daffodils in the middle, and small early bulbs like crocus near the top. One pot, months of flowers.
Outsmart deer and squirrels
Squirrels love tulips and crocus, and deer will happily eat tulip tops. If critters are a problem, lean on bulbs they tend to leave alone: daffodils, alliums (ornamental onions), grape hyacinths and fritillaries, according to the Chicago Botanic Garden. For tulips, laying chicken wire or netting over the bed until the ground freezes keeps diggers out. Clean up any papery bulb skins after planting, because the smell attracts squirrels.
Feed at planting, not at bloom
Mix a little bone meal or a bulb fertilizer into the bottom of the hole when you plant. Rutgers specifically warns against fertilizing spring bulbs once they've started flowering, because that can encourage bulb rot.
Let the leaves die back naturally
After the flowers fade, leave the foliage alone until it turns yellow. The leaves are recharging the bulb for next year's bloom. Cut them early and you'll get fewer flowers next spring.
Gardening in a Warm Climate? Chill First
Tulips and hyacinths need a long cold period to bloom. In mild-winter areas (roughly zone 8 and warmer), the ground may not stay cold long enough. Many gardeners there pre-chill these bulbs in the refrigerator for about 10 to 12 weeks before planting, kept in a paper bag and away from fruit, since ripening fruit can damage the flower inside the bulb. Daffodils and alliums are generally more forgiving in warmer areas.
Common Bulb Mistakes to Avoid
- Planting too shallow. Shallow bulbs are easy targets for squirrels and are more likely to heave out of the ground in freeze-thaw cycles.
- Soggy spots. Low areas where water sits are the number one bulb killer.
- Waiting until spring. Spring-flowering bulbs planted in spring usually won't bloom. They need that winter chill.
- Storing them in plastic. If you can't plant right away, keep bulbs in a paper bag in a cool, dry place so they don't mold.
Helpful Resources
Want to dig deeper? These university and botanic garden guides are excellent and free:
- Spring Flowering Bulbs, Rutgers University Cooperative Extension
- Planting Bulbs, University of Illinois Extension
- Plant Bulbs in the Fall for a Spring Celebration, Penn State Extension
- Plant Now, Applause Later, Chicago Botanic Garden
- Selecting and Planting Bulbs This Fall, University of Vermont Extension
And if you're also planting trees and shrubs this season, read why fall is the best time to plant trees and shrubs.
Shop Fall Bulbs
Tulips, daffodils, alliums, irises and ready-made garden mixes are in stock now, delivered right to your door. Plant them this fall and next spring will thank you. Shop all fall bulbs →
